Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a renowned Indian fashion designer, recently held a high jewellery showcase in Delhi, marking a significant milestone in his career. The event featured 24 stunning looks, drawing inspiration from various sources including Indian royalty, Calcutta's bylanes, and Frida Kahlo. Pieces like the Naidu Choker, featuring 92 carats of Burmese rubies, and the Maharani Necklace with a mix of uncut diamonds, sapphires, tourmalines and pearls, were highlights.
Mukherjee openly discussed the challenges of entering the heavily guarded Indian jewellery industry as an outsider. He attributes his success to his determination and commitment to preserving and reviving India's fine jewellery craftsmanship. His brand has seen significant growth, with a turnover rising from ₹229.42 crore in FY22 to ₹343.86 crore in FY23.
Mukherjee's designs are characterized by a unique blend of traditional Indian aesthetics and modern sensibilities. He emphasizes the use of a wide spectrum of coloured gemstones, meticulous craftsmanship, and intricate detailing, even on the back of pieces. He personally sources many of his gemstones, working closely with his team of gemologists.
Mukherjee's vision centers on creating 'modern heirlooms'— pieces that are both precious and wearable. The showcase included models wearing his jewellery with evening dresses and even jeans, emphasizing the versatility of his designs. He aims to create pieces that are not just for special occasions but can be incorporated into everyday wear.
The article also highlights Sabyasachi's contribution to reviving traditional Indian jewellery crafts. His brand employs around 50 in-house artisans and master craftspeople, including goldsmiths, hand-setters, and enamellers, many of whom had left Bengal and have now returned.