Girl, What Waist? | The New Yorker

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Race and Fashion: A History of the Waist

The article delves into the history of waistlines in clothing, examining their cultural and racial implications. It begins with Balenciaga's Trompe lโ€™Oeil Sweatpants, sparking discussions about sagging, racism, and commercialism within the fashion industry.

Sagging and its Social Context

The author traces the history of sagging, noting how it became a target of derision and even legislation, leading to tragic consequences. This is juxtaposed with the adoption of sagging styles by figures like Billie Eilish, raising questions of cultural appropriation.

Gender and Body Modification

The article examines the shifting gender dynamics in fashion, highlighting brands like HommeGirls that challenge traditional gender roles. It also discusses body modification, particularly the B.B.L. body, and its connection to race and class.

The Met Gala and the Black Dandy

The 2025 Met Gala's theme, โ€œSuperfine: Tailoring Black Style,โ€ focusing on the Black dandy, is analyzed as a significant shift in the fashion world. This is contrasted with previous controversies and rumored plans for the previous gala.

Conclusion

The article concludes by emphasizing the enduring and often panic-inducing role of the waist in fashion, highlighting its connection to race, class, gender, and body modification.

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