Walk five minutes south of the monastery, past one former synagogue – Santa Maria La Blanca, reputed to be Europe’s oldest – and you arrive at another. The magnificent carved wooden ceilings and plasterwork walls of El Transito blend Mozarabic decorative influences. Constructed in 1355, El Transito houses the Sephardic Museum, which accounts for Toledo’s long Jewish history. You’ll find good information sheets in English and the museum has some especially beautiful ceramics. Pause afterwards in the synagogue’s small memorial garden. See spain.info

Take in the art at Hospital de Tavera

Don’t like monuments and art? Better skip Toledo, which has them in spades. This Renaissance palace, built by a cardinal for the needy, is a whopper. The architectural highlight is the symmetrical double courtyards, while a wealth of paintings includes masterpieces by El Greco, Tintoretto and Zurbaran. Cardinal Tavera’s marble tomb is a sculptural work of art too, with no sign of humility other than a little memento mori skull tucked under his pillow. See fundacionmedinaceli.org

Admire El Greco paintings

Toledo is associated with El Greco, the 16th-century painter whose works seem astonishingly modern. You can see quite a few of his paintings in Toledo, and all are odd and electrifying. The church of Santo Domingo Monastery where the painter is buried has top examples including the altarpiece Assumption of the Virgin showing Mary springing from her tomb like a jack-in-the-box. El Greco Museum (in a house where El Greco never lived, despite claims) has several superb later works. See museodelgreco.sacatuentrada.es

Fill up at Confiteria Santo Tome

If El Greco’s elongated, hollow-cheeked saints make you peckish, take a break from gloomy painted art and indulge in happy edible art instead. Toledo nuns are said to have invented marzipan – which is disputed – but Toledo has certainly produced it for centuries. Santo Tome, in business since 1856, is Spain’s best-known marzipan maker. You can devour biscuits, pastries, cakes, sweets and marzipan fruit filled with lip-licking goo. Like El Greco’s saints, you’ll soon be in heaven. See mazapan.com

Take a hike to Mirador del Valle

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In this old town of closed-in alleys, you’ll want to get beyond the walls to admire Toledo’s fabulous setting above the Tagus River, dominated by the whopping Alcazar, or fortress. This viewpoint is a 40-minute walk from Puente Nuevo bridge just below the fortress, but outlooks are fabulous all the way. Sunset and twilight are the most atmospheric. The lazy option is a taxi to nearby Parador de Toledo for a cocktail on the terrace. See paradores.es

The writer travelled at his own expense.