It’s Saturday night in the city that never sleeps. I’ve moved into a fancy doorman building on the Upper East Side of New York for a daring summer adventure inspired by Carrie Bradshaw and co. It’s 2009, back when it was possible to find a great two-bedroom sublet on Craigslist, wire several thousand dollars from Sydney to a stranger on the other side of the world, and find nothing bad happened.

Eager to toast our real estate luck, two single-and-ready-to-mingle Aussie ladies get dolled up in their best outfits and head out to the local bars. The only problem is, the bars are in snooze mode, deserted except for a few guys from Jersey, who are knocking back bottles of Bud Light at an alarming pace. Where is everyone?

Rookie error, No.1: We’re unaware that many residents of the bougie Upper East Side head out of town to the Hamptons on steamy summer weekends, and that nightlife in the area grinds to a halt. No. 2: Ordering a round of Cosmos instantly marks us as tourists.

More than a decade on, I’m no longer a New York rookie. I dress down to go out, and I’m more likely to drink a glass of wine or mineral water than a sugary cocktail. I’ve heard it all, from the one about alligators living in the sewers (not true), to the wildest dating stories (mostly true), to the perception that the city is outrageously expensive and unliveable (definitely untrue).

Yes, the Big Apple is home to the ultra-rich who can easily afford to spend $US750 a person (that’s $1200 and doesn’t include drinks or tax) on a “dining experience” at renowned Japanese restaurant, Masa. It’s also home to millions of working-class and middle-class New Yorkers on modest budgets. You’ll bump into them at the dollar-slice pizza shops or doing their grocery shopping at Trader Joe’s.

Head out of the tourist trap areas of midtown Manhattan in search of delicious, affordable food and you will certainly find it. Last night, I feasted on excellent Malaysian roti canai, satay and char kway teow for less than $US20, including gratuity.

Wealth doesn’t dictate access to culture in New York, with exceptional free entry to everything from concerts in Central Park to fascinating lectures, world-class museums and art galleries. The subway is a fast and convenient way to zip around the five boroughs, for a bargain flat fare ($US2.90). Affordable apartments and hotel stays can still be found, especially outside Manhattan.