Chiuri delved into the archetypal form of the kimono—its unisex, modern, two-dimensional structure, and the way it grants the body both freedom and mystery, concealing and revealing in equal measure. She explored its elegant ease of wear, while also paying tribute to the bravura of Japanese craftsmanship—“a tradition that is respected, preserved, and continually regenerated,” she remarked, “rooted in the past, honored in the present, and propelled into the future.”

True to her commitment to collaborations with local artisanal communities—a hallmark of her creative practice—Chiuri partnered with the historic Tatsumura Textile atelier. Founded in 1894 and renowned for crafting exquisite obi sashes and ceremonial garments and decorations across five generations, the atelier revisited patterns originally commissioned by Monsieur Dior in the 1950s. A sumptuous brocade in deep green-gray, woven with subtly modernized geometric motifs, was crafted into a kimono-style overcoat paired with matching trousers, while a luminous golden brocade adorned with delicate floral designs became a cinched kimono-style robe-manteau.

Chiuri also tapped into the expertise of other historic artisans: Master dyer Tabata Kihachi and the Fukada family’s specialists in traditional dyeing techniques lent their hands to key looks, a standout being a belted kimono-style jacket and matching knee-length shorts in ivory and deep green dégradé tones. Japanese floral iconography was hand-embroidered onto oversized cashmere coats, printed on slender, chic silk velvet tunics with fringed hems, and hand-painted on the jackets worn by the violinists performing live at the show’s opening. Sportier alternatives, some rendered in stark black only slightly textured in moiré or tone-on-tone ramages, balanced the fluidity of other silhouettes—think voluminous padded blousons decorated with cherry blossoms and foliage, or indigo denim crafted into an oversized jumpsuit and a trapeze jacket printed with a minimalist sketch of a Japanese garden.

Seen up close, the craftsmanship was nothing short of couture. A prior visit to the historic Tatsumura Atelier—where sumptuous textiles are still painstakingly handwoven on antique looms—offered deeper insight into the enduring mastery of Japanese artistry, which still thrives and flourishes. The atelier’s guiding philosophy, “Restoration and Creation,” as expressed by its president Iku Tatsumura, definitely resonated with Chiuri’s approach to the collection. As the runway unfolded beneath the pink glow of cherry blossoms at Toji Temple, guests like Lily James, Deva Cassel, Sonam Kapoor, and Pretty Yende looked on from the front row, taking in the show’s serene vibe, and the grace the evening so generously delivered.